CHOOSING YOUR NEW TREE
Evaluate your new site location. Take note if it has sun, part shade, moist soils, windy, water available, zone, etc. Then think about mature height and width, color of foliage and or blooms. We recommend purchasing the most mature tree you can afford. Trees are slow growing, permanent and a big investment. We want you to be successful. The more mature the tree, usually the better success.
PLANTING YOUR NEW TREE
Gather your supplies for the project; maybe a wheelbarrow or a tarp to protect the surrounding area and to mix your soil, a sharp shovel or spade, water hose or buckets, staking material and amendments.
There are many opinions about how to plant a tree. From our own experience and our customers, we like to give our trees a nice start. Not so nice they won't venture out of the new hole however. Amendments such as Fishy Peat, compost, composted manure, and if your soils are total clay consider mixing some sand or peat moss to the soil you've removed from the hole.
Probably the most important thing to assure your tree survives and stays healthy is watering. If the fine absorbing roots become dry, they will die and cause the tree to die as well. Do not allow your tree to dry out before planting. After planting be sure to give your tree a thorough watering once a week until the ground freezes. To insure proper watering, check the soil about a foot down. The soil should be moist but not saturated. Soaker hoses work great.
Also extremely important, do not loosen the soil below your root ball. The root ball needs to sit on firm soil.
It is imperative that the depth (see photo) be correct. The depth should be the same as it is in the pot with the trunk flare just above ground. Your new tree is susceptible to wilting. An anti-desiccant such as Wilt Pruf, which coats the leaves and prevents water loss, is a good preventative. Spray after planting and if evergreen, spray again just before freeze-up.
Moose protection for almost all trees is a must. Plantskyd liquid spray seems to be effective. Burlap and concrete reinforcing wire cages are other solutions.
Rabbits have become a real problem in our area. Plantskyd granules have shown good results. Protecting the trunks is the most important step to deter rabbit damage.
Remember, even self pollinating varieties will benefit from a second pollinator.
APPLE TREES need a second tree for cross pollination. Clones cannot cross pollinate i.e. A Norland cannot pollinate another Norland. Each tree must bloom at the same time. The second tree can be as far away as 500 feet. There's no law against taking advantage of your neighbor's pollinator.
CHERRY TREES do not need a pollinator. Our 'Evan's cherry trees do not require a pollinator.
PLUM TREES require a cross pollinator. Any prunus will do as long as it blooms at the same time. This year we have 'Compass' and 'Sapalta' perfect for pollinating each other.
*Cool rainy weather may cause lack of pollination. No remedy. Better luck next year.
*Trees are old. Apple trees have a production life of about 30 years. You can rejuvenate an older tree with select pruning.
*Some species will produce a bumper crop one year and not so much the next.
*Crabapples can pollinate a fruit producing tree however; some crabs are sterile such as 'Spring Snow'.
*No bees. Try planting perennials close to the trees such as Monarda, trollius, sedum, geranium, Hesperis Matronalis, and phlox. Remember, bloom periods must match.
Back to trees and shrubs