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Fritz Creek Gardens Newsletter

Throughout the year -- particularly during the gardening season -- we e-mail a short, friendly newsletter to gardeners. Much of what is contained in the e-mail is posted below. It's a great way to keep up with what's going on at Fritz Creek Gardens, alerts to sales specials, gardening tips, plant profiles and much more.

If you prefer to receive our free e-mail newsletter right in your own e-mail box click here. Just fill out simple signup form and you're subscribed!

July 30 Newsletter

Over the years we've had many famous visitors to our gardens. Remember Stephanie Cohen? That really short lady who kept us laughing so hard we didn't even realize how much we were learning? Being the Primula addict I am, it was really special to have Marie Skonberg, Alaska's leading expert on Primula spend a couple of days in our gardens a few years back. Jill Sheppard, editor with Alaska Magazine, is still a regular visitor now that she has retired, along with Julie Riley, head horticulturist with the Cooperative Extension Service. And Dr. Annie Nevaldine, fantastic photographer and great friend. They make a weekend out of it a couple of times a year. Lauren Springer and her new husband, Scott Ogden, spent some of their honeymoon time in our gardens. And, of course, the most recent visitor was Dr. Allan Armitage, probably the best known "garden person" in the world.

Special Visitor

Thinking back on all these visitors I still have to say I have two very special, over-the-top experiences with visitors. One is when I was doing a little late weeding in the Tori Meadow. With plants way over my head, I guess I wasn't visible, which is just the way I like it. Well, one of our regular visitors was showing her out-of-town company around the gardens. I heard her say "and this year we added this area." Of course, this person doesn't work here but the fact that she thought of my gardens as "we" made me just beam.

This experience is in a tie right now with the latest experience, which occurred two weeks ago. Take a look at the attached picture. That spiffy lady is 101 years old (photo at right). This is not her first visit but her first since she hit the century mark, and she is still gardening in her heart. After she had walked around for a while she stopped to rest and have a drink of water on the wooden swing, the most favorite sitting spot of all visitors (another story). When I delivered her water she said to me as she leaned back and closed her eyes, "I've died and gone to heaven." Going to be pretty hard to beat that one, eh?

If you haven't visited the gardens this year you are really missing out on a terrific experience. They are at their absolute best. I reserve the right to say that again at another time. but, truly, they do look superb. I've attached a couple of pictures of the gardens.

Sales Specials

You know we had to do a "do-over" for our "structure in the garden" sale -- plants that are pointy, frilly, moundy and bones? It caught on great but a little late for a lot of folk so we started over. This week it's moundy and that covers a lot of perennials and shrubs. The sale is buy 3 and get the 4th one free. A few examples of moundy perennials: thymes, Cerastium tomentosa (snow in summer in attached picture with 'Miss Kim' lilac), Sedum, Hosta, Lamium, Primula plus moundy shrubs such as Potentilla, 'Little Princess' spirea and roses. Next week will complete this sale series with frilly.

Click on these links to see what's available this year in Thymus, Sedum, Hosta, Lamium and Primula.

Garden Trends
I've just returned from Philadelphia and the Perennial Plant Association Symposium, where we swap wild tales about our season; visit with our friends from around the world; see all the new plants introduced for the year; discuss the needs, wants and complaints or our customers; talk about all the new gardening trends; visit gardens and garden centers in a 50-mile radius and generally get our "fix" for the year. There were more than 700 of us this year, a little below average because of high fuel costs to travel and the season being a bit off for the same reason, plus a very cold spring and summer. Yes, our cold spring was shared by many, but the gas costs were shared by everyone, putting us all in the same boat. I had to come home early, what with Dr. Allan Armitage doing his "Walkabouts" in our gardens (well worth it), but I still got 5 days into the symposium. Containers Are In!

Hands down the biggest trend is containers. With folks so busy with their daily lives, more and more are enjoying the convenience of gardening in containers (photo at right). There were almost a hundred containers on display, giving us ideas and proving the reason for the popularity of containers. Of course, here at Fritz Creek Gardens, we've always had containers throughout our gardens: at the end of a path that hasn't been connected to the rest of the garden yet, set in a place where the plants didn't quite do their thing, in areas we want to highlight and around seating areas to really enjoy a specific plant are all reasons to have containers. I'm sorry now that we didn't offer ceramic pots this year, but we thought Fred Meyer would be here and I try not to offer things readily available elsewhere. We will have them again next year. We will offer planting classes, help you pot here on site or plant for you, plus I have a kids program in mind for containers. I'm already getting excited about it.

Another trend is the green roof idea. I visited a few and wasn't really impressed. It was hot (97 F) and the gardens weren't properly maintained so they were quite ugly. I've seen some nice green roof gardens in the past so I'll not throw out the idea from this not-so-good experience. One idea I thought was adorable was a green roof dog house. Maybe that will be one of our projects next year for a kids class (which, by the way, another big trend is including children in the gardening efforts). I like that idea. I wonder why? Maybe with 9 grandchildren and 2 great grandchildren I might be a bit prejudiced in this area.

New Discount Program

We've thought for years of how to reward our regular customers. Once we did try to have customers save their receipts and when they reached a certain dollar amount, they got a set discount. Too much trouble for everyone. We're just not big enough to have all of those computer-driven programs. This was another topic at the PPA meetings. I've come up with something I hope will be acceptable to my customers. We're calling it the "12/12 Forever Customer Reward Program." You purchase one of our hand-screened T shirts for $12 (considerable discount) and wear it to shop at Fritz Creek Gardens and receive a 12 percent discount on all regularly priced purchases "forever" -- as long as I am here the offer will be honored or as long as the T shirt lasts.

The Ts are of good quality, Haines, and I've washed mine many times with no fading or shrinking. The Ts were designed and screened at the Red Rock Correctional facility in Arizona, where our Alaska boys are taken to serve their time. If you are interested in that story, just ask me.

Bulbs Are Coming!
Need to end this very long e-mail but couldn't end without making an exciting announcement: We're back in the bulb business! I fell in love all over again with bulbs in several slide shows and lectures at the PPA symposium. I'm attaching a picture of our muscari bulbs in our spring gardens. They are more special because we are so starved for some color other than black and white at that time of year. I've started putting together a few classes on bulbs to offer, including a class on forcing and offering to keep your planters here for the 14- to 16-week forcing period. You can forget about them and pick them up around Valentine's Day. Pretty neat eh? Stay tuned.

July 17 Newsletter

Allan Armitage

The Homer Garden Club is hosting Dr. Allan Armitage on Saturday, July 26. I've known Allan for some time now through the Perennial Plant Association and know first hand he is top notch. And if my word isn't good enough, take the word of the world where he has earned almost every award or merit available. And of course there are the 30 or 50 books he has written. I personally have two for my own work, one on perennials "Armitage's Garden Perennials, A Color Encyclopedia" and the book he wrote for cut flower growers "Specialty Cut Flowers" I use for my new Paeonia cut flower project (one of those spring things I'm almost caught up with now). He has a sense of humor that won't quit and he's just a likeable guy. And when he talks, well, you'll want to have your note pad handy; he's what we call a plant nerd.

Allan will be doing a "walkabout" in our gardens on Saturday, July 26 at noon and again at 2:30 p.m. The charge is $25 and will go to the Garden Club to help offset some of the expenses for his visit. Tickets are available in advance at the Book Store and the Chamber. If you have concerns about the cost, in Anchorage the "walkabou" will be $40 and the dinner there is $100. I promise it is money well-spent for us plant folk. I'm excited because I have at least 2 plants in my garden that I have no idea what they are or where I got them, etc. One is in bloom right now! And I'm sure Allan will know all about them. What a great chance to spend some personal time with Allan.

That night at 7 p.m. at Islands and Ocean Visitors Center, Allan will be speaking about and showing slides on "Crazy Plants for Crazy Gardeners." The cost for this event is $15. Advance tickets are available at the Book store or Chamber and at the door.

The following day, Sunday, July 27, is the Garden Club's annual event featuring "6 Outstanding Homer Gardens." This is a very popular event and maps are given at the beginning of the event or when you purchase your tickets, and you can go on your own schedule. It's a great time to gather your friends in that van and make a memorable day of it. The 6 gardens will be open from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. For nonmembers the cost is $15 and members is $10.

He will be in Anchorage lecturing Monday, July 28 at 7 p.m. at the Anchorage Museum. That cost is $10.

Photos above courtesy of Dr. Allan Armitage.

July 2 Newsletter

I've been getting some pretty unhappy pictures of folk's plants after they were transplanted. It made me sad to see the poor plants and also to know the disappointment the gardeners are experiencing. Thought I'd give you some tips now in hopes to catch some of you before you have a bad experience. At the end of this letter, I offer a special session here at the greenhouse for learning how to transplant and divide. Check it out!!

Mixed Primula Garden
When to Transplant or Divide and Why

Why: if the plant has outgrown its existing space, if the plant looks like "ring around the rosy," meaning it has foliage all around the edge of a circle and the middle is dead, or if you just don't like it in that spot.

When: The general rule for transplanting is if it blooms in the spring, transplant in fall, and vise versa, if it blooms in the fall, transplant in the spring. I transplant when I have time. Regardless of when you transplant, many plants will not bloom that season or maybe the next, depending on the plant. Transplanting is very hard on living things!

How to Transplant

Watering: Depending on why you are digging the plant up, to move or to divide. If you just need to move the plant to another location, that's the easiest and least obtrusive to the plant. Let's start with just moving the plant to a new location. The day before or at least a few hours before you start, water the plant. It's extremely important that you get all of the cells in the plant plumped up with water. Desiccation or drying out is the No. 1 most important problem folk have. So before you even think about moving or digging up a plant, make sure it has had a long drink of water.

New Location: Also before you even think about moving the plant, prepare its new home with the best possible situation, including making sure the soil is right for the plant (another subject) making sure the soil has nutrients for the new plant. Remember MOST ornamental plants in Alaska like excellent drainage and a sweet soil. Our soils are normally acidic so maybe a little lime, some Fishy Peat or my favorite -- compost -- should be added to the soil. I do this by digging my hole bigger than it needs to be and amending the soil I've just dug up with compost. One common mistake folks make is not making the new hole big enough. You might be surprised by the root system on your existing plant. Many mature plants have huge roots. Usually, not so deep but very broad, with the exception to the deep part-being plants with tap roots such as Aquilegia (columbine) that seem to go on forever. If you don't get the tap root, forget about it: that plant is toast.

Digging: So now, we have a new inviting hole for the plant, it's been hydrated for hours and we're ready to do the deed. Take your sharp shovel and cut a complete circle around the plant. The goal is to trick the plant into not even catching on that it is being moved. You do this by taking enough dirt with it so that the roots are never actually exposed. Remember we are talking about the ideal way to move a plant. Sometimes this just isn't possible.

Water Bucket: If the plant is far away from its new home, if it is huge or if you haven't been able to keep a lot of dirt on the roots, have a wheelbarrow or a five-gallon bucket standing by with water in it; just enough water to keep the plant from drying out between the old and the new home. You may think this isn't important, trust me, it is. The phone can ring, you need to take a break from the hard work or a myriad other things could delay getting the plant snuggled into its new home. Keep that plant hydrated during the entire process! Replanting into the new home is the easiest part. Just remember -- that's right -- water the plant when you are finished. Most plants should be planted the same level they were in their old homes. Of course one reason for moving or transplanting is because the plant has heaved out of the ground, a not-so-uncommon occurrence here in Alaska. In that case, you'll need to plant deeper.

If you are dividing the plant you follow all the same steps listed above except it is even more important to keep the plant hydrated. Now you are really going to put this plant in shock by pulling, maybe cutting and generally tearing it apart. I use that wheelbarrow or five-gallon bucket to wash as much soil off the plant as I can get off to see what I am doing. A sharp knife will be necessary for rhizome or tuber plants such as Iris, Hosta and Paeonia. These guys have huge bulbous-looking roots and will need to be cut. Make sure all the new pieces have several eyes.

If your dividing plant has fibrous (hairy) roots, try to tickle them apart by gently washing and pulling into new divisions.

It is extremely satisfying to make babies from your larger plants to add to other parts of your garden or maybe to share or exchange with a fellow gardener.

Because this subject has come up so many times this past week I've decided to have a class this Saturday July 5. I know the timing may be a bit off with the 4th of July weekend etc., but this is when I can fit it into my schedule. The class will be at 11 a.m. and is free. We'll dig up some plants from our own propagation beds. You'll need to bring some gloves and if you bring a small bucket (for water and plant), you just might end up with a few little babies for your own gardens. I hope this information helps you avoid a disappointment, and if you can fit it into your big weekend schedule, we'll see you Saturday at 11 a.m.

Photo at top is of a Penstemon, our native fern and various types of candelabra Prrimula (primrose).

June 11 Newsletter

Did you know one full-sized tree removes annually 26 pounds of carbon dioxide from our atmosphere? That equals 11,000 miles of car emissions. What an easy way to help with our global warming (if there is such a thing) and certainly to help with pollution, which we know we do have.

And we have good and bad news today. The good news is our woodies -- trees, shrubs and rose stock -- is the best we've ever had. The bad news is our fantastic arborist, Tarri, is easing her way to retirement. Unless someone else steps up to the plate, we may not have woodies next year. Take advantage of Tarri's knowledge and many years of Alaska experience while the opportunity is still here.Plan a trip to Fritz Creek Gardens over the next couple of months while we are open to make that long-term investment in woody plants.

Blue Poppies In Stock!

Blue Poppies (Meconopsis sp.) are here and ready for your gardens. We have two varieties -- Meconopsis 'Lingholm' and Meconopsis betonicifolia -- and really it's just a personal choice between the tow, I think. The cost this year is $12.00 per container for each variety.

Lotsa Hosta!

Continuing our stroll down memory lane for the top sellers for 2007, Hosta was No. 3 and has held a position in our top 20 for the past 6 or 7 years. In the rest of the world, they are No. 1, according to "American Nurseryman" magazine and the Perennial Plant Association.

Hosta

Click to see our full line of hosta.

The very first and most important thing to know about growing hosta in Alaska is they don't do that great in full shade. Remember, most garden books have no clue about our growing conditions, which are quite different from the rest of the world. Because our seasons are so short and our grounds stay cold so long into the season, anything grown in full shade usually results in failure. Although a few of our customers have indicated success in growing hosta in shade or at least part shade, I grow most of my hosta in full sun and in groups.

Hosta are primarily grown for their foliage and their low maintenance. The unique variegations and the tremendous choices of leaf size and shape are very appealing, but what many forget or don't know is that they have lovely lily-like flowers that shoot out of the base of the foliage and most often have a very nice fragrance (thus the common name plantain lily).

Foliage size varies from tiny-round to pointy-huge to almost any configuration you desire. The foliage color variegations seem endless these days, from solid dark green to almost blue to marbled, striped, textured, contrasting margins, shiny or dull, and much more. Available in sizes from a few inches to a 10-foot spread, there is definitely a size and shape that will work in your gardens.

When planting your hosta, keep in mind the roots normally spread horizontally. I dig my hole about 12 inches deep and add a generous amount of organic matter to my planting hole, especially if my area has a lot of clay or is very porous, such as in sand or gravel. If your hosta is purchased in a pot, tap the outside of the pot and then put your fingers over the top of the pot, holding in the plant and soil. Turn the pot upside down and gently ease the soil and plant from the pot. If the root system seems compacted, carefully separate the roots. If this is impossible because the hosta is very root bound, take a sharp knife and cautiously score 4 long vertical cuts along the sides to encourage new growth to grow out radially.

Hosta Combination

For maintenance, they rarely need any dividing, unless you want to divide and have more in another spot. Hosta soil requirements are also very "low maintenance." They survive in moist or dry soils, and do well in our normally low pH soils. Hosta are heavy feeders and will not be spectacular unless you fertilize heavily each spring, preferably with compost.

Phlox subulata 'Candy Stripes' is my most favorite combination, along with a nice spiky plant such as Veronica 'Royal Candles' -- although hosta go with almost anything, including at the base of shrubs. Photo at right, for example, shows off a hosta in one of our gardens with ferns. You really can't go wrong with these great plants!

May 20 Newsletter

Our Cold Soils

Alaska has COLD SOILS. Duh! So what does that mean to gardeners? It means the slow-release fertilizers probably don't work. To overcome these circumstances we use natural fertilizers, your own compost, composted steer manure, Fishy Peat, easy solution. Cold soils also mean pesticides probably won't break down in the soils and that's not so easily overcome. If pesticides don't break down because of our cold soils, what happens? Do the pesticides just stay there or do they travel with run-off to ponds, streams, oceans? Do pesticides end up where your kids play or your pets sleep? Take a look at allowable pesticides in other states and compare that list to the very, very short list approved for Alaska. That's because the manufacturers are scared of our cold soils and won't accept the liability. Something to think about isn't it?

Watch For Potato Blight

If you are a veggie gardener, do you grow tomatoes? Do you grow potatoes? Even if you're not an avid gardener, I'm sure you've heard about the problems with POTATO BLIGHT and other potato diseases showing up in Alaska. I understand the problems have been quickly diagnosed and overcome due to the diligence of the potato farmers and the seriousness of the effects. But still, it is a grave concern. It appears the source has been identified as coming into our area with tomato plants from other states through mostly big box sellers. Please, buy your tomato plants only from your local vendors who are starting them here in Alaska and will not have the chance to contact with this really severe threat.

Wonderful World Of Sedums

Continuing our 2007 line-up for best sellers at Fritz Creek Gardens, let's talk about Sedum, the wonderful, versatile ground cover, our No. 4 best seller. Commonly referred to as stonecrop because of its ability to grow on stone ledges, Sedum comes from the word "sedo," which means to sit. Again, this is from the plant's habits to make themselves right at home and "sit down" in cracks and walls.

Click to see our full line of sedums.

If you are looking for a low-maintenance plant, something with long season interest, something indestructible but not invasive, look no more, sedums are it. From their distinctive new pink buds to their fall color, this plant truly offers something all season.

Sedums in Garden

(Photo: Sedum spurium and Primula in our spring gardens.)

In Plants 101 we learned that hairy or succulent leaved plants are drought tolerant. Sedums are succulent-leaved and definitely require very little moisture. They grow between stones in paths in poor soil, even in sand and will meander among your stone walls creating a glorious display.

I don't think I could garden without sedums. All of my gardens have at least one sedum. They range in size from prostrate to 33 inches. Their foliage colors run from a beautiful bright spring green to a dark bronzy-maroon fall color. Their flowers include whites, pinks, reds, oranges, and various shades of yellow. Some sedum start blooming in early summer and some are still blooming when it starts to snow.

Sedums have a sculpture value with their foliage of many colors, shapes, sizes and texture. The tiny bright yellow Sedum acre looks like a waterfall of sunshine when planted on a slope of shale. A very old but still my favorite is Sedum spurium. The tight pink buds appear in early spring and open to be one of the many shades of greens, morphing to reds to dark maroon to pinks depending on the variety.

Sedum kamtschaticum 'Variegatum' always disappears off the benches when ours in the gardens start to bloom. The yellow star shaped blooms have pink centers and the foliage is absolutely terrific. Of course, the name holds some romance to Alaskans.

If you're looking for a taller variety, try Sedum 'Autumn Delight' a newer variety with an almost neon green variegated foliage, 'Autumn Joy' or any of the Autumn series. In late summer I've often seen so many drunken bees on my 'Autumn Joy' that I could hardly see the flower. These great plants are about 15 to 18 inches tall and make a nice hedge at the turning point of paths or as specimens for the mid point of your perennials borders. When they first come up in the spring I put a small fence around their feet. The fence is quickly camouflaged by the foliage. The fence will keep the plant from opening in the middle and flopping when the huge pink flower heads open. I leave my fence there forever. That's how well behaved the tall varieties are. I keep pieces of metal from landscape fencing on hand to cut up for these type uses every spring for any plant with flopping tendencies, not just sedums. There are several methods of propagating these taller varieties. I cut off stems in the fall before the first frost and hang them upside down in a warm, dry place for a few months. Each leaf node will make a baby. Pretty neat, don't you think?

Sedum spurium 'Tricolor' has all the spurium attributes plus a pink, green, and white variegated leaf. I'm not so sure this one is quite as aggressive as 'Coccinium,' which might be just right for smaller gardens or those of you who are a bit tidier with your gardens

Propagation of these smaller sedum continues the "easy" habits of sedum. Just break off a piece and stick it in the ground. That usually works. The taller varieties can be broke off and laid on their side and each nodule will root. It's a lot of fun and very rewarding.

If you haven't tried sedums, I hope you'll be inspired to try a few this season. If you already have sedums, break off a piece for your gardening neighbor.

Hope to see you soon in the greenhouses.

Rita Jo

 

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Fritz Creek Gardens
PO Box 15226, Homer, AK 99603
Phone: (907) 235-4969
Fax: (907) 235-8116
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